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VBC16: Info & Rules

2 December 2016

GENERAL INFORMATION
– Location: VietClimb + Chez Xuan garden restaurant. N40-41 lane 76 An Duong, Tay Ho, Hanoi. Six bouldering zones inside at the gym, 4 zones outdoor at Chez Xuan Garden restaurant (50 meters from the gym)
– Date & Time: Saturday 3rd of December, 8am-6pm
– Current number of participants: 43 males // 17 females. Visitors: ~100
– VBC kit: 1 event t-shirt, 1 TPI chalk test sample, 1 reusable water bottle, 1 wristband, 1 A5 scorecard with printed map.
– Energy: BBQ for lunch and juices/beers are available at Chez Xuan (not included in the registration fee)

ORIENTATION MAP
sheet-qualificationnom-2
DRESS CODE
Event t-shirt IS compulsory. Your color (red or black for males, purple or turquoise for ladies) has been attributed on a random base. T-shirts colors will not be exchangeable on personal preferences. We appreciate your cooperation on the dress code to show a consistent visual effect of the event and the climbing community.

ADULT QUALIFICATIONS (8.15am to noon)
I. Introduction
a. Climbing format: OPEN BUFFET. Maximum 10 attempts to complete 30 problems during the specified duration: ~3h45.
b. Categories: Male/Female for Finals
c. Number of zones: 6 at the gym (Z1 to Z6), 4 at the wall at Chez Xuan (Z7 to Z10). One referee per one or two zone(s).
d. Number of problems: 3 boulders by zone → 10 zones x 3 boulders = 30 problems.
e. Scorecard: before each attempt, you HAVE TO give your scorecard to the zone referee. Only referees are allowed to write on the scorecard. Don’t forget to get back your scorecard after your attempt when leaving the zone.
f. Flow: after your attempt, you can queue on a new zone, at the same zone or take a rest. You CAN NOT try twice in a row a problem in the same zone, except if there is no one behind you waiting for climbing.

II. Scorecard
Before you start climbing, you will be given with your VBC kit an A5 scorecard as below:
Sheet-qualification(nom)
TAKE FULL RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOUR SCORE CARD. As seen on the top left, the referee will either write a T (for top, if you complete the boulder) or a X (if you fail), in the squares following the number of attempts.

III. Points
a. Every boulder has a value of 1, 2 or 3 points according to its difficulty. Difficulty (valued 1, 2 or 3) of the boulder will be indicated on the wall. When you have completed a boulder, it’s done. Climbing it again will not give you more points.

b. If you “FLASH” the boulder (=if you complete the problem at your first attempt), you will double the value of the boulder, so double your points for this specified boulder. For instance, if you complete at your first attempt a 2-point boulder, you will get 2×2= 4 points. Then 2 points for flashing a 1-point boulder, 6 points for flashing a 3-point boulder. After your first attempt, the value will still be the same (1, 2 or 3 points) whether it takes you 3 or 6 attempts to complete the problem.

c. At the end of the qualifications stages or when you want to stop to compete, you HAVE TO bring your scorecard to the Organizer Table located at Chez Xuan.

d. The 5 climbers of each category (male/female) with the most of points will be selected for the Finals (3-5.30pm).

e. In case of draw for Finalists, number of attempts to complete 3-point boulders then number of successfully completed boulders will be taken into consideration.

f. In case of tight draw, number of finalists can be changed at the organizer’s discretion.

IV. Climbing Procedure
a. Each boulder will have a clearly marked Start which will consist of marked handhold(s) for both hands and marked foothold(s) for both feet and a clearly designated finishing hold.

b. An attempt shall be deemed to have started when every part of the competitor’s body has left the ground. If a competitor cannot reach the starting holds from the ground, they shall be permitted to start the boulder by jumping for the starting holds.
c. An attempt on a boulder shall be considered successful ONLY when the Boulder Judge has announced “OK”, having determined that the competitor has controlled the marked finishing hold of the Boulder with both hands

d. An attempt on a boulder shall be considered unsuccessful if the competitor fails to control with both hands the marked finishing hold. Uses with their hands any holes provided for the placement of bolt-on holds. Uses the side edges or the top edges of the wall for climbing. Touches the ground with any part of the body. Fails to complete their attempt before the end of the assigned period.

e. In case of infractions, the Zone referee will instruct the competitor to stop climbing and give him a warning (disqualification after 3 warnings).

U 15 CONTEST (noon-1.30pm)
Same format as Adult qualifications. Same boulders but re-adjusted. Number of zones: 6 at the gym (Z1 to Z6). The wall at Chez Xuan IS NOT accessible to U15. Ranking will be based on number of points.

ADULT FINALS (3.30-5pm)
I. Introduction
a. Climbing format: 3 min per boulder with isolation. 5 finalists (except article III.f).
b. Categories: Male/Female
c. Number of zones: 2 at the wall at Chez Xuan (Z7 to Z8). One referee per zone.
d. Number of problems: 4 for each category
e. After the announcement of the results, finalists will be required to enter isolation (in the gym) no later than 1.45pm.
f. The starting order for the Finals will be the reverse of the ranking order from the qualification round, i.e. the highest ranked competitor shall start last.
g. Observation procedure: 8 minutes per category. During the observation period, finalists are allowed to touch only the marked starting holds, without leaving the ground with their feet

II. Bonus Hold
The positioning of the Bonus Hold should aid the separation of competitors with markedly different performance. On each boulder, a bonus point will be awarded if the competitor controls the Bonus Hold. The bonus point will be awarded also where a competitor successfully completes the boulder without having controlled the Bonus Hold. The Bonus Hold shall be considered as “controlled” where a competitor has made use of the hold to achieve a stable or controlled position.

III. Scoring and ranking
The number of boulders completed determines a finalist’s ranking.
a. For each finalist attempting a boulder, the Referee will record the number of attempts required by that finalist to gain a bonus point or to successfully complete the boulder.

b. Finalists will be ranked using the following criteria:
– The number of successfully completed boulders;
– The total number of attempts to complete these boulders;
– The total number of bonus points gained by the competitor in the current round;
– The total number of attempts to achieve these bonus points.

c. In case of draw, a tie-break boulder will be designed at the organizer’s discretion.

SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS
– Be careful when you cross the road between the Gym (zone 1 to 6) and Chez Xuan (zone 7 to 10).
– Be aware on Zone 7 to Zone 10, mattress area is more limited than inside a gym.
– Never climb directly above or below another climber.
– Don’t sit or stand under the wall when people are bouldering.
– Problems finish on the last obvious hold. DO NOT grab or touch the top of the wall, or any girders, metalwork or lights.
– Don’t boulder with hardware hanging on your clothes or chalk bag.
– Keep the mat free of objects and obstructions like bags, clothing, shoes etc.
– It’s advised to un-climb problems after completion. If jumping, fold your legs and watch out your ankles.
– Ice is available at Chez Xuan, basic first aid kit for minor injuries at the gym. Taxis are in the area in case of serious injuries.